Interesting and justifiably famous,
not only for its proximity to the world's highest mountain,
but also for its Sherpa villages and monasteries, the Everest,
or Solu Khumbu area is the second most popular trekking destination
in Nepal. The primary objective of Everest treks is either
the Everest base camp, about 5.340 meters, or Kala Pattar,
an unassuming 5.545 meter hump on the southern flank of Pumori
(7.161 meters), which provides a fine view of Everest (8.848
metres).
One of the biggest problems with the Everest trek is the
high likelihood of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), commonly
known as altitude sickness, a potentially deadly illness caused
by too rapid an ascent to high elevation. Be sure to read
the section on Mountain Sickness if you are planning an Everest
trek. If you suffer any symptoms of altitude sickness it is
still possible to make a fascinating trek to less ambitious
destinations including Namche Bazar, the administrative headquarters
of the Khumbu region; Khumjung or Thami, more typical Sherpa
villages; or Thyangboche monastery, from which an excellent
view may he had of Everest and its more spectacular neighbor
Ama Dablam (6.856 metres).
The Everest region may be reached by STOL (short take-off
and landing) airstrips at LukIa (2.800 metres), Shyangboche
(3.700 metres), or Phaphlu (2364 metres) or by an eight-day
trek from the road head at Jiri, 188 km from Kathmandu. Those
who fly to Lukla miss the historic and culturally fascinating
route followed by the Everest expeditions of the ''50s and
'60s although the trek has changed substantially in the past
30 years. It is best to take the time to walk from Jiri, then
after acclimatization and conditioning afforded by the trek,
visit base camp or climb Kala Pattar and either fly out from
Lukla or walk back by an alternative route to Kathmandu. Those
who insist their time is limited can fly to Lukla and spend
as little as six days to visit Namche Bazar and Thyangboche.
It is ill advised to attempt a quick visit to base camp, because
of the lack of time for acclimatization, if you fly in to
one of these airstrips. You should allow at least eight or
nine days to reach the base camp region if you fly to Lukla;
the return from base camp to Lukla can be made in as few as
four or five days, so an absolute minimum of two weeks is
required for a safe trek to base camp. The timing is further
complicated because flights to LukIa often do not work as
planned, so those with a tight schedule would do well to allow
a few spare days for both the flight in and the flight out.
Everest Gokyo :
The second part of our trip heads up the Dudh Kosi Valley,
crowned by the 8.153-meter peak of Cho Oyu and its companion
peak Gyachung Kang. Gokyo vs. Kala Pattar is a favourite argument:
those who have visited both seem to rate Gokyo slightly higher.
Despite this it gets fewer trekkers; the lure of Everest Base
Camp is too strong.
Take the trail on the valley's west side. Head through small
summer herding settlements to skirt the giant Ngozumba Glacier
and arrive at a series of small lakes. Gokyo (4,750 meters)
is a tiny herding settlement by the third lake and has several
lodges. Climb the 5,483-meter peak to the north-west (also
dubbed Kala Pattar) for views of Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse,
and Makalu, plus a host of smaller peaks. Several more lakes
and Cho Oyu Base Camp lie north up the glacier.
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