North of Pokhara, Nepal's spectacular diversity appears at its finest The deep valleys and high mountains encircling the giant Annapurna Himal embrace a wide range of peoples and terrain, from subtropical jungle to a high, dry landscape resembling the Tibetan Plateau. This is the most popular trekking region, attracting over 75% of all trekkers (more than 30.000 annually). It's also among the tamest areas, with excellent lodges lining the main routes. Finding Nepal beneath the flood of trekkers can be difficult, but the scenery and culture are top-notch, and you can avoid the peak-season crush and still get fine weather and views.

Two main trails follow river valleys in relatively easy ascents: up the Kali Gandaki to Jomosom and Muktinath, and up the Marsyangdi to Manang. By crossing a high but straightforward pass, the Thorung La, these trails can be joined into the classic Annapurna Circuit. As the land climbs, thatch-roofed mud-walled huts are replaced by flat-roofed stone houses, and people change from farmers to herders, Hindus to Buddhists. The Annapurna region dramatically reveals the highland/lowland cultural and geographic frontier running across Nepal. Mountain views are frequent and good, and if they don't equal the heart-of-the-mountains feeling of Khumbu, there's the Annapurna Sanctuary, a secluded high-altitude hollow ringed by huge peaks.