| The name Island Peak was given to the mountain
in 1952 by Eric Shipton's party who were on their way to explore
the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does
indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed
Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island
Peak seems to have been retained.
The mountain was first dimbed in 1953 by a very prestigious
team in preparation for the ascent of Everest. They were Charles
Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay, with
seven Sherpas who were trying out the new fangled oxygen sets;
as practice, of course, for loftier things. Fortunately this
didn't set a precedent and most people seem able to climb
it without bottled air, although a Sherpa
Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the
mountain doesn't look too impressive, dwarfed as it is by
one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South
Face of Lhotse. However, on close inspection it reveals itself
to be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated
West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself
is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and
is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising
to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to
the summit of lmja Tse. The continuation of this ridge, descending
south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and
leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky
west facet of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.
As well as providing an enjoyable climb the peak also provides
some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak
can be likened to an island in a glacial sea, then the mainland
forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the
rugged summits of Nuptse (7.879m) Lhotse (8.501m), Lhotse
Middle Peak (8.410m), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar
(8.383m). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the
Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu (6.734m). beyond which can
be seen the red granite mass of Makalu (8,475m).
To the south of the Imja Glacier the icy flutings of Baruntse
(7.720m) and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle
of Ama Dablam (6.856m) which is like a giant sea-stack guarding
the entrance to the glacial bay in which Island Peak stands
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