The bulk of Mera, officially
the highest of Nepal's permitted trekking peaks, rises to
the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the
wild and heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas
and is not truly speaking part of the Khumbu Himal. It should
also be noted that there is a discrepancy between the official
height given by the NMA (6.654m) and the Schneider Map (6.476m).
The first ascent of Mera was made by J.O.M. Roberts and Sen
Tenzing on 20 May 1953, by the now standard route from the
Mera La. It was during this season that Roberts made the first
western exploration of the Lumding, Hinku (Inukhu) and Hongu
valleys. It would appear that Mera did not receive a subsequent
ascent until 1978 when French climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus
and L. Honills climbed the North Peak, following the same
route as Roberts but traversing along the connecting ridge
to the further summit.
Both the Hongu and Hinku valleys remain uninhabited although
there are kharka in the upper Hinku basin where Sherpa from
the south, near Pangkongma, graze their animals during the
grass-growing monsoon.
By its standard route from the Mera La, the ascent is technically
straightforward; however, after a heavy fall of snow or when
the maze of crevasses are open, the way can be long and demanding.
Far and above the most rewarding aspect of a trip to Mera
is a chance to venture into a little-visited and as yet unspoilt
region of Nepal where the hillsides are still densely forested
and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also,
of course, the pleasure of going above 6.000m.
There are many approaches to Mera; none are easy and some
require the crossing of high and difficult passes, making
a trek to the peak a real mountaineering adventure for which
effort is rewarded with spectacular scenery and ultimately
one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal.
The upper Hongu Basin is truly a mountain wilderness, a place
of massive moraines, glacial lakes and spectacular peaks that
include Chamlang and Baruntse. The valley terminates in a
crescent of ridges, peaks and passes that includes West Col
(6.135m), Amphu Labtsa (5.780m) and the Mingbo La (5.817m).
All of these crossings provide magnificent, albeit difficult,
entries and exits to and from the Hongu Basin. Interestingly,
a group of lakes (generally referred to as Panch Pokhri) set
just below the Amphu Labtsa and near the snout of the Mingbo
Nup Glacier on the approach to the Mingbo La is a sacred site
and a place of pilgrimage.
Of the passes, the Mingbo La is tbe most direct to Khumbu,
and the least dangerous. The landscape is superb; all above
5.000 metres, with constant views of magnificent mountains,
dominated in the last few days by Ama Dablam. The Khumbu side
of the Mingbo La is quite steep as you descend between ice
flutings for about 100 metres, with the final glacier section
through the seracs of the Mingbo Glacier quite stunning. A
further day descending moraines below the South-West Face
of Ama Dablam leads to Pangboche and the main Everest Base
Camp trail. Expect to take three days to travel from base
camp to a camp on the Hunku Nup Glacier, on the east side
of the Mingbo La, with a further two days to Pangboche. |